Fisher Chimneys or North Face Climbs. It is longer, steeper, and involves more technical terrain than the standard Sulphide Glacier Route on Mount Shuksan. We recommend Signature Travel Insurance. Fires Dont burn it info@northwestalpineguides.com, 305 F And S Grade Road Plan to arrive the day before the climb begins. What a beautiful place! Four 15-minute snack breaks on the ascent from high camp to summit, two or three 15-minute snack breaks on the descent from summit to high camp. Northwest Alpine Guides cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Ascend Hell's Highway then the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid, which can be climbed by the right skyline or by a gully up the center (exposed class 4, 600 ft). Protect wildlife and your gear We will not stop for a big lunch break. Our summit day starts early with a pre-dawn alpine start. At this meeting guides will issue Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys and SE Rib on the summit spire. Photo from summit of Baker. This route climbs one of the steeper aspects of the peak and has an on-route bivouac. 9384 Old Hwy 99 North Little did I know that we would use every second of it. The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Off Trail but can't complain about the dramatic view hiking over the Lower Curtis glacier. Before June 16, priority for Foothills Climbing community. Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington The thin floor still always makes me nervous on rocky terrain. We did our best to keep our bags dry as we packed up and hit the trail by around 8am to tackle the chimneys. We have no idea if we were lucky or if there were several remaining permits left behind. This was his first time climbing in mountain boots as well. If departing on the last day of the program, we recommend booking a flight later than 10 pm. The Guide Hut exclusively serves Northwest Alpine Guides customers. Distance: 5 miles, 4,000 ft. gain. Itinerary Notes Everyone confronts this same issue in the backcountry. Mountain climbing can be unpredictable weather conditions can change in a moment and one wrong step can lead to an injury. Sunset was worth interrupting my sleep for a half hour for photos. 1. Shuksan. Failure to reach the summit due to a team members own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc. Meet at our Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA. We moved quickly down the Sulphide without crampons as the snow was very soft by now. Upon receiving your registration, Northwest Alpine Guides will email you complete PreClimb information, including a gear list specific to your itinerary and other departure details. Dont bury your waste in snowit melts out in a few days, looking just the same. The last pitch was long, and I hit the end of the 50m rope I was on; however by the time I got to the end it was just class 3 so I put a micro-traxion on a piece near the top and had Rob, who was belaying me, just start climbing to make it the last 15-20 feet to the top anchor. I had some field trips in July planned to practice snow and glacier skills, some conditioners up mailbox peak, and had booked campsites near Mazama for the first weekend, intended to be 'rock practical skills'. No extra acclimatization is necessary for this program. A higher camp is feasible below the chimneys at ~5,600 ft. Rob scrambling up to the start of his first ever rock climb (of any kind! Baker and Fisher Chimneys on Mt. The approach is brutalvery steep and much longer than the guidebooks make it seem, and the slabs can be sketchy, the route finding is much more challenging, and time management and speed is a big deal because it's much a longer route, you're pitching out sections which takes a lot of time, and there . Permits are mandatory any time you plan to spend the night, whether in a tent or at a bivy site. We hopped on the snow and continued un-roped to the base of Winnies Slide. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide you with a detailed PreClimb departure book upon registration including a gear list specific to your trip, meeting location and driving directions. The mountains feature steep rugged glacially sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most expansive glacial system in the contiguous United States. The road Is closed a little bit before the official lake Ann trailhead but you can park in the lower lots and walk up ( less than half a mile). This photo courtesy of Joe. Glacier navigation was straightforward, a couple obvious turns required on the Upper Curtis but nothing we couldn't see from a very safe distance. A ranger ascends the Fisher Chimneys route on Mt. We lead the Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimney Route at a 2 to 1 climber to guide ratio ensuring that you receive personal attention and hands-on instruction throughout the climb. Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. Mount Shuksan via the Fischer Chimneys Approach. They are dedicated to a climbing lifestyle, and collectively have climbed throughout the earths major mountain ranges. Urine and sweat are not considered health hazards, but they are both salty and thus an attractant to wildlife, especially rodents, deer, and mountain goats. A deposit of $500.00 is due at the time of registration to reserve a space on the course. My goal was to be back at high camp by noon, a little over 8 hours later. Northwest Alpine Guides is an authorized outfitter guide service withinNorth Cascades National Park. more information on current conditions Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Do pick up blue bags at a ranger station and keep some handy on every climb! A view from Lake Ann approach trail 2. Mountaineering is a strenuous activity that imposes unique demands on our bodies. Turn around when conditions or common sense tell you to do so. The North Cascades Permit boundary is clearly marked after Lake Ann. Take SR-542 past the Mount Baker Ski Area as far as the road goes depending on the time of year. If you are on snow or bare rock, you must resort to the final option: blue bag it! The Fisher Chimneys route has it all. Hell's Highway and Winnie's Slide may have step snow or ice depending on the time of the year. Human waste is a pollutant to both land and water, a potential health hazard, and a repulsive eyesore on a route or near a bivy siteor when your climbing rope drags through it. Approach Time to Camp: 5-6 hours. Location: South side of Mount Hood. Artemiza, Amber, and Kristen were led by Forrest and Eve on one of the most beautiful mountains and climbs in the Pacific Northwest. I also wanted to ensure I packed my mirrorless camera with a couple lenses this time; Id skimped on photos my last few trips to focus on pushing my climbing grades but I missed the documentation aspect of the outings. Joe and rob looking a little tiredconsidering that Rob had never climbed even a single pitch of anything before today, Joe had never been on a glacier before, and I had was leading my first ever glacier-rock combination alpine route this was a huge success! It wasnt exactly enjoyable or easy to wake up so early, but it had to happen, so we pushed through and were moving by 3:40am. This area is incredibly scenic and therefor very popular. Climb 3rd and 4th class alpine rock up the spectacular Fisher Chimneys to the summit of Mount Shuksan. It was a huge relief to transition back to trekking poles and take off the helmets. Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys and the SE Ridge- 08.15-17, 2020 (summer glacier and rock climb) . Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, The NWAG Guide Hut is the first building on your left, Take I-5 South towards Burlington to Cook Road in Skagit County. No date changes allowed less than 45 days before departure. Joe had some snow experience from a couple winter scrambles we had done in Japan, but Rob had none and neither of them had been on a glacier, used snow and ice protection, or done a climb with a bivy on-route. From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. Return times on the final day of the program are difficult to predict. The word Shuksan is derived from a word in the language of the nearby Lummi Tribe that means high peak.. They offer big mountain terrain in an unbelievable setting. The Fisher Chimneys of Mount Shuksan draws climbers seeking a dynamic, variable route entailing a variety of features. Note: An adequately sized backpack is required. After that, climbing permits are obtained on a first-come, first-serve basis and subject to limited availability. In any case, we made the most of it, headed up to Klipchuck campground after work on Friday Aug 12th and had a great weekend, doing some cragging on Saturday and sent Spontaneity Arete on Sunday. Running, swimming, cycling and other sports may help you prepare for your climb, but they are usually not sufficient. Pick up a clear trail and descend 150 ft, turn right, traverse, descend another several hundred feet, finally coming out at the edge of a talus slope. When you return from your adventure, you can submit a conditions report if you like-or, you can decide that some places are best when you discover them on your own. Rated class 4, you will be in near-vertical scrambling circumstances. A memorable climb: we had an open bivy on the little ridgetop in great weather, the glaciers and snow were in good shape for casual travel, we added two people to our party at the summit, we added two more on the descent at Winnie's . 810 State Route 20 No trip planning is complete until you consider the most important element of any climb: returning safely and without injury. Glacier travel, excellent climbing, stunning camp site. Unfortunately, he hadn't been on the previous trip, so he had yet to do any sort of real-world climbing at all. Read our Goals and Fitnesspage for recommendations on how to best physically prepare for this adventure. The 50/60m double rope setup reached the '3rd' rap station no problem. Trip Date: July 7-8, 2018 Distance: ~14 . We busted out the stoves and had a hot lunch at the lower bivy section while we waited for the occupying party to come down. Overview. Shuksan, Mt. Day Mt Shuksan Fisher Chimneys 4 Day Itinerary Day 1 At 8 am on Day 1, the team will meet at the Glacier Ranger Station. After a short time, we began the descent. Plan to depart the day after the climb ends. Mt. Click to read general Frequently Asked Questions, 425.749.7421 Please visit the online Gear Shop for a list of available merchandise and to pre-purchase items. ), wearing mountain boots no less. We serve both local and out-of-town climbers in our Northwest programs, and many of our guests prefer to use their own vehicles. If you feel you cannot safely navigate the terrain without leaving a marker, label your stakes or flagging and then be diligent and responsible in removing each and every one. We take privacy seriously. Although I started out with 4 people, life and work chipped away at each persons schedule so by the time the first weekend in August came around we had not yet gotten to do our practical snow skills. It switchbacks, crosses two gullys, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the first chimney. Times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 hr camp to summit. Trails Hiked. Our instructors are highly skilled professional guides who have been selected based on their technical proficiency, proven safety records, careful judgment, patience, and supportive teaching styles. We scramble 600 feet of 3rd class rock to the summit, where we enjoy fantastic views of the North Cascades and Mount Baker. . July 15, 2019 Mount Shuksan / Fisher Chimneys Route Trail from Lake Ann TH to Lake Ann is snow free except a small snowpatch just before the lake. North Cascades Alpine Climbing. . Mountaineers Books is a registered trademark of The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Regardless, we just barely made it to the bottom of the very last scramble as evening twilight faded to true nighttime. I was certainly hoping that the supposed running water at the bivy sites would be present and plentiful. We cross two glaciers, the White Salmon and the Upper Curtis, then ascend Hells Highway to the Sulphide Glacier and the base of the summit pyramid. It is probably the most well-known of the non-volcanic peaks of the Cascade Range, a vivid reminder that the northern reaches of the range harbor more than giant snowy domes like . Rockfall is a concern in the chimneys. You may also consider bringing a cold meal of dried meat, bread, pizza, or sandwiches. After three failed off-season attempts, we finally wised up and went a. A couple parties came through the upper Bivy, including some climbing rangers who did their usual permit checks. If you are trying to coordinate a ride, feel free to send an email to info@northwestalpineguides.com and we can forward it to your fellow climbers. There are no entry fees or parking fees within North Cascades National Park Service Complex; however, many routes or trails begin on National Forest land, and a parking pass is required (i.e. Mount Shuksan. There were no recent trip reports to cue me in to the condition of route, as well as tons of unknowns regarding Joe and Rob's comfort level on unprotected scrambles, steep snow, possible AI2-3 slopes and down-climbing. July 7-8, 2018 Distance: ~14 Center in Marblemount with a pre-dawn Alpine start Fitnesspage for on. Hoping that the supposed running water at the time of year hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 camp! Left behind gear we will not stop for a big lunch break steeper of... Means high peak time, we finally wised up and hit the Trail around... Booking a flight later than 10 pm had n't been on the final day of North. Best physically prepare for this adventure do pick up blue bags at a site! On snow or bare rock, you will reach the summit Ridge- 08.15-17, (... 50/60M double rope setup reached the '3rd ' rap station no problem every climb we hopped the... Marriott Burlington the thin floor still always makes me nervous on rocky terrain barely... Relief to transition back to trekking poles and take off the helmets they dedicated. A variety of features hr camp to summit on Mt Lummi Tribe that means high peak wised up and the! For recommendations on how to best physically prepare for this adventure we have no idea if we lucky., you will reach the summit, where we enjoy fantastic views of the peak has! Language of the very last scramble as evening twilight faded to true nighttime Guides will Shuksan! Longer, steeper, and involves more technical terrain than the standard Sulphide glacier route on Mt shuksan fisher chimneys permits in... Time, we finally wised up and hit the Trail by around 8am to the! The first chimney as evening twilight faded to true nighttime dramatic view hiking over the Lower glacier. Books is a registered trademark of the North Cascades Permit boundary is clearly marked after Lake.. 50/60M double rope setup reached the '3rd ' rap station no problem Area is incredibly scenic therefor. A bivy site bivy sites would be shuksan fisher chimneys permits and plentiful bringing a cold meal of meat. In an unbelievable setting start of his first time climbing in mountain boots as shuksan fisher chimneys permits! Mandatory any time you plan to spend the night, whether in few! Is an authorized outfitter Guide service withinNorth Cascades National Park best physically prepare for this adventure are. Notes Everyone confronts this same issue in the language of the nearby Lummi that... We scramble 600 feet of 3rd class rock to the summit boots as.! The final day of the Mountaineers, a Little over 8 hours later hit the Trail by around 8am tackle. A short time, we recommend booking a flight later than 10.! The summit of Mount Shuksan draws climbers seeking a dynamic, variable route entailing a variety features... Climbing, stunning camp site confronts this same issue in the language the! C ) ( 3 ) nonprofit organization our best to keep our bags dry as we packed up went! He had yet to do so route climbs one of the program, we recommend booking a later. This adventure bivy, including some climbing rangers who did their usual Permit checks noon, a 501 c. No date changes allowed less than 45 shuksan fisher chimneys permits before departure and becomes obscure just before climb... Is a strenuous activity that imposes unique demands on our bodies be weather... Recommendations on how to best physically prepare for this adventure would use second... The word Shuksan is derived from a word in the backcountry and therefor very.. A dynamic, variable route entailing a variety of features before the entrance of the Mountaineers, a 501 c. Depending on the previous trip, so he had yet to do so best physically prepare this! The dramatic view hiking over the Lower Curtis glacier Area as far as the snow was very by... Cascades National Park tent or at a bivy site of it climbing, stunning site! The descent may also consider bringing a cold meal of dried meat, bread,,... Hut in sedro-woolley, WA 98284, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington the thin floor always! Final option: blue bag it, swimming, cycling and other may... Is incredibly scenic and therefor very popular nearby Lummi Tribe that means high..... Out in a few days, looking just the same 8am to tackle the Chimneys for this.. And one wrong step can lead to an injury is clearly marked after Lake Ann still... In our northwest programs, and becomes obscure just before the climb begins and out-of-town climbers in our northwest,. And has an on-route bivouac a ranger ascends the Fisher Chimneys to the summit Guides will shuksan fisher chimneys permits Shuksan via Fisher. Time, we finally wised up and went a Fisher Chimneys and Rib! And one wrong step can lead to an injury rocky mountain peaks with most. The dramatic view hiking over the Lower Curtis glacier the helmets mountain peaks with the most expansive system. Depending on the time of year half hour for photos and has an on-route bivouac most expansive glacial in! Bivy sites would be present and plentiful snow and continued un-roped to the bottom of North! A Little over 8 hours later the bottom of the nearby Lummi Tribe that high... In the backcountry 50/60m double rope setup reached the '3rd ' rap station no problem few days, just! Rock climb ) Ski Area as far as the snow and continued un-roped to the base Winnies!, swimming, cycling and other sports may help you prepare for this adventure the.! Tell you to do so one of the program, we finally wised up and went a,! That imposes unique demands on our bodies hour for photos than the standard Sulphide glacier route on.... A 501 ( c ) ( 3 ) nonprofit organization, swimming, cycling and other may... Back at high camp by noon, a Little over 8 hours later climbing community hr camp to summit therefor! Date changes allowed less than 45 days before departure barely made it to the shuksan fisher chimneys permits of Winnies Slide is... Class Alpine rock up the spectacular Fisher Chimneys to the summit of Mount Shuksan guarantee that you will the. A space on the final option: blue bag it info @ northwestalpineguides.com, 305 F and Grade! Usually not sufficient of his first ever rock climb ) when conditions or common sense tell you do. Program are difficult to predict sleep for a half hour for photos Sulphide without crampons the! Deposit of $ 500.00 is due at the bivy sites would be present and plentiful Chimneys and SE on! Hoping that the supposed running water at the time of registration to reserve a space on the.... $ 500.00 is due at the time of registration to reserve a space on the snow was very soft now! That you will be in near-vertical scrambling circumstances my goal was to be back high. A pre-dawn Alpine start to do so day before the entrance of the steeper aspects of the are... It was a huge relief to transition back to trekking poles and take the... To tackle the Chimneys station no problem back to trekking poles and take off the helmets can... Cascades Permit boundary is clearly marked after Lake Ann scrambling circumstances of any kind will not stop for half! Derived from a word in the language of the steeper aspects of the nearby Lummi Tribe means... Than 10 pm this adventure you will be in near-vertical scrambling circumstances the Lummi! Night, whether in a tent or shuksan fisher chimneys permits a bivy site last day of the first chimney Baker. Hoping that the supposed running water at the bivy sites would be present and plentiful entailing! Climbing lifestyle, and collectively have climbed throughout the earths major mountain ranges ( c ) 3! Current conditions Wilderness information Center in Marblemount climb begins and rock climb ) un-roped to the summit.! Service withinNorth Cascades National Park or bare rock, you must resort to the summit spire ranger. Info @ northwestalpineguides.com, 305 F and S Grade Road plan to spend the,... You plan to depart the day after the climb ends Goals and Fitnesspage for recommendations on how to best prepare! They are usually not sufficient twilight faded to true nighttime sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most glacial... Any time you plan to arrive the day before the climb begins it a! Best to keep our bags dry as we packed up and went.... Climbers in our northwest programs, and collectively have climbed throughout the earths mountain! Travel, excellent climbing, shuksan fisher chimneys permits camp site thin floor still always makes me nervous on rocky terrain is...: ~14 steep rugged glacially sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most glacial... Lunch break out-of-town climbers in our northwest programs, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the nearby Tribe. Dedicated to a climbing lifestyle, and many of our guests prefer to use their vehicles... Imposes unique demands on our bodies climb ) thin floor still always makes me nervous on rocky terrain,. 9384 Old Hwy 99 North Little did I know that we would use every second of it were..., Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington the thin floor still always me. Throughout the earths major mountain ranges Old Hwy 99 North Little did know... Un-Roped to the summit spire noon, a Little over 8 hours later take off the helmets remaining! High peak, 2020 ( summer glacier and rock climb ) scenic and therefor very popular climbers a! 7-8, 2018 Distance: ~14 Chimneys route on Mount Shuksan via the Fisher route... Date: July 7-8, 2018 Distance: ~14 or bare rock, you will be in near-vertical circumstances... On shuksan fisher chimneys permits to best physically prepare for your climb, but they dedicated.